The Penwith Peninsula

The Penwith Peninsula

Pennwydh

The Wild Far West

Web: www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/cornwall/coast-beaches/discover-mayon-cliff
Web: www.visitcornwall.com/regions/west-cornwall

Map

The Penwith peninsula sits predominantly on granite bedrock that has led to the formation of a rugged coastline with many fine beaches. The contact between the granite and the adjoining sedimentary rock (mostly shales) is most clearly seen forming the cliffs at Land's End, the most westerly point in the district and this geology has resulted in the mining that has made Cornwall famous. Tin and copper have been mined in the area since pre-Roman times and the landscape is dotted with ruined mine buildings. Inland, the peninsula is primarily granite with a thin top soil. This combined with Cornwall's exposed position and the prevailing weather systems from the Atlantic Ocean means that, with the exception of the high moor areas, much of the area is a semi-bare plateau standing around 420 feet above sea level. This is most evident on the north coast between St. Just and Zennor where the remains of the ancient seabed of the Pliocene era are visible. Its highest point is Watch Croft at 826 feet. Penwith contains a great concentration of ancient sites.

There are several deep valleys cut into this plateau where sufficient shelter from the weather is gained for trees to establish and grow. The shelter of these valleys and the mild climate gives Penwith a flora not seen anywhere else in the UK. Penzance's Morrab Gardens is able to grow bananas. Penwith also contains an artificial lake, Drift Reservoir, which is located approximately three miles west of Penzance.

Tin mining once played an important part in the economy of Penwith. The mines gradually became economically mined out through the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, as the easier seams were exhausted and more amenable sources of metal were discovered in South America.

The last working mine in the district and one of the last in Cornwall was at Geevor which is now a heritage site and museum following grants totalling nearly £4 million from various sources including the Heritage Lottery Fund. The north of the district has arguably suffered the worst from the closure of the mines as there have been few jobs available to replace what was lost to mining. Many miners from the district have emigrated over the last century in order to find mining jobs abroad.

Despite the decline in the number of people employed in the fishing industry, it still plays an important part in the district's economy. Newlyn harbour is the largest deep sea fishing port in England.

Farming in Penwith is predominantly dairy with some arable crops such as potatoes, cauliflower and broccoli. Cornwall's mild climate and an absence of hard winter frosts mean that these cold-sensitive crops can be produced much earlier than in the rest of the country, and early Cornish new potatoes are a lucrative source of income.

Since 1878, Penwith has had a weekly newspaper, The Cornishman, based in Penzance. As well as Penwith, the paper covers The Isles of Scilly.

Penwith's scenery makes it a popular holiday destination. Local attractions including Cape Cornwall, the Minack Theatre, the South West Coast Path, Land's End, St, Ives and Sennen Cove, are all crowded in the summer months.

Penwith has its own community radio station, Coast FM (formerly Penwith Radio), which was launched on 5th November 2016 and broadcasts in West Cornwall on 96.5 and 97.2 FM.

Towns and Villages

Botallack
Botallack is located seven miles north-west of Penzance on the B3306. Botallack Mine has been referred to as the submarine mine, its ruined cliff-side engine houses perch remarkably close to the cliff edge and the tunnels extend under the sea. Nearby is the location of Geevor Tin Mine and Heritage Centre, and Levant Beam Engine, both just north of St. Just. Nampara, home of Ross Poldark in BBC TV series, is situated here.

Carbis Bay
A mile to south of St. Ives, and a resort in its own right. Sheltered, wide and sandy beach ideal for young children, plus windsurfing and water-skiing. This is an increasingly popular holiday area, with fine hotels and camping sites. There is a memorable panoramic view from Hayle to St. Ives along the railway branch line trip from Lelant and the coastal footpath here is a joy to walk. Parish church is St. Anta.

Hayle
The town is proud of its three miles of golden sandy beaches with views across the bay to St. Ives which attract many thousands of visitors every year. The Towans, Cornish for sand dunes, stand proud for all to see and are a rich source of wildlife and offer enjoyable coastal walks. Former seaport and foundry town. Granite railway viaduct. Estuary of interest to ornithologists. Rare birds, endangered animals and falconry displays at Paradise Park. Richard Trevithick built his first steam-powered road carriage here.

Lamorna Cove
Craggy cove with small quay, west of Mousehole, immortalised by artist Lamorna Birch, author Derek Tangye and Cornish folk song. Once a noisy granite quarry nearly a hundred years ago, there is now just a peaceful harbour hamlet. Great walking country. Merry Maidens and the Pipers standing stones nearby. Local pub is The Lamorna Wink.

Lelant
Charming village at the estuary of the Hayle river with long stretches of sandy beaches and dunes. Thriving seaport in the Middle Ages. Church of St. Uny and 16th century Abbey, golf course, sanctuary for wading birds on Saltings. Rosamunde Pilcher associations. Scenic rail link to St. Ives. Local pubs are The Badger Inn and The Watermill.

Ludgvan
Small village just off the A30 between Penzance and Hayle. Set on a hill overlooking Mounts Bay, Ludgvan's church of St. Paul, originally St. Ludowanus, is chiefly 15th century and sports a collection of gargoyles on its tower. Local pub is The White Hart.

Madron
Located one mile north of Penzance. The moors behind Madron village abound with ancient sites, one of the most imposing being Ding Dong Mine engine house, which has recently been carefully renovated. The church of St. Maddern, with Trafalgar Banner celebrating Nelson's victory, was once the parish church of Penzance. The Trengwainton Gardens (NT) are nearby. The village pub is known as the King William the Fourth.

Marazion
Cornwall's oldest charter town located east of Penzance just off the A394. This quaint village can claim to be the oldest town in Britain, called Ictis by the Romans. It is possible to walk or take a ferry, depending upon the tide, to St. Michael's Mount - the island home of the St. Aubyn family. Interest is centred on the excellent beach and the splendid sailing and windsurfing waters, but there are also some lovely coastal and inland walks. Local pubs are The Godolphin Arms, The Fire Engine Inn, The Station House and The Kings Arms.

Morvah
A small village in a wild moorland setting, a few miles north of Land's End. Spectacular cliff scenery from this part of the coastal footpath. The 15th century church of St. Morwetha was used as a beacon for shipping. Near to the ancient sites of Chun Castle, Chun Quoit and Men-an-tol.

Mousehole
Classic fishing village west of Penzance, once a major pilchard landing port. Retains considerable character. Burned by Spanish privateers in 1595. Famous for Xmas lights and Tom Bawcock's Eve (December 23rd) celebrated with fish lantern procession and Star-Gazey Pies. Local pub is The Ship Inn.

Newlyn
Premiere fishing port in the south-west, located about a mile west of Penzance. Here a remarkable combination of busy industry and Cornish tradition creates a fascinating world. The Penlee lifeboat is moored in the harbour and the old lifeboat house, situated on the cliff between Newlyn and Mousehole remains in memory of the Solomon Browne lifeboat and its crew lost in 1981. Newlyn is also famous for its Art Gallery which houses local work, and for The Pilchard Works, the last working salt pilchard factory.

Penberth
Small fishing village near Land's End.

Pendeen
Formerly a major tin producing village, north of St. Just, latterly production has ceased but its history is told at the Geevor Tin Mine Museum. Another popular attraction is the lighthouse. Walk the Hard Rock Trail through areas which convey the spirit of Pendeen's past.

Penzance
Bustling town and harbour on the A30. Cornwall's only promenade. Ideal centre for touring Land's End. Aquarium, maritime and mineral museums, Egyptian House (Landmark Trust), National Lighthouse Centre, Art Galleries, Morrab and Trengwainton Gardens. The Jubilee Bathing Pool, July maritime festival. Stepping-off point for Isles of Scilly, by ferry or helicopter, or Skybus from St. Just (five miles). Main line railway terminus. Many cafes and pubs.

Porthcurno
Exquisite beach with tortuous approach road, south-east of Land's End. Famous cliff-top Minack Open-air Theatre, founded by Rowena Cade, performances May to September, overlooking Logan Rock. Museum of Wireless Telegraphy. Local pub is The Cable Station.

Porthgwarra
Quaint fishing village on southern tip of Land's End peninsula. Sandy beach and walks along the coastal footpath.

St. Buryan
Five miles east of Land's End. 15th century church of St. Buriana with rood screen, granite tower offers a daymark for shipping around Land's End. Film Straw Dogs shot here. Bronze and Iron Age relics, including 19-stone Merry Maidens circle. St. Buryan Feast held here each May. Local pub is the St. Buryan Inn.

St. Ives
Magnificently situated in the far west of Cornwall, overlooking spectacular crescent of beaches. A warren of stone cottages, cobbled lanes and alleys. Artist's colony for almost 100 years: Sickert, Whistler, Nicholson, Lanyon. Tate Gallery. Barbara Hepworth Museum and Bernard Leach Pottery. Annual arts festival. Museum, golf course. Terminus of railway branch line from St. Erth.

St. Just-in-Penwith
Mainland's most westerly town, next to Cape Cornwall. The Iron Age village of Carn Euny is nearby, as is Geevor mining heritage centre at Pendeen, Crown engine houses at Botallack, Ding Dong Mine and Pendeen lighthouse are also in the area. Flights to Isles of Scilly.

St. Levan
Situated approximately eight miles south-west of Penzance along a minor road that forks from the B3315 towards Land's End. Near Porthcurno. Finely carved pews inside medieval church dedicated to St. Levan. Porthcurno Telegraph Museum and The Minack Theatre are nearby.

Sancreed
A lovely village between St. Just and Penzance with an interesting Cornish church (St. Credan). A good starting point from which to explore the Beacon and ancient remains of Caer Bran and Carn Euny. Reached via the A30 road from Drift, where the Drift Reservoir offers excellent trout fishing.

Sennen Cove
Most westerly village in Cornwall with views to Cape Cornwall. The large bathing beach is popular with surfers, and is a Blue Flag beach. Lifeboat slip and former windlass house, now a crafts gallery. Cliff castle. Excellent cliff walks to Land's End. Flights to Isles of Scilly from nearby St. Just airport. Local pub is The Old Success Inn.

Trewellard
Small village near to Pendeen on the B3306 coast road between St. Just and St. Ives. Close by is Geevor tin mine which finally closed in 1990, and Levant tin mine which was the site of a terrible accident in 1919 where 31 men were killed. It has been long since closed and is now owned by the National Trust which operates it as a museum.

Zennor
Enchanting moorland village west of St. Ives, just off the B3306, with 12th century St. Senara church and famed mermaid bench end. The author D H Lawrence lived here, and described his experiences in Kangaroo. Wayside Folk Museum with a working water mill. Splendid walking country along the coast path for the agile. Site of ancient quoit. Local pub is The Tinners Arms.

Places to Visit

Botallack Mine
Mining under the sea.

Cape Cornwall
Situated in the far west of Cornwall, four miles north of Land's End and Sennen Cove, the spectacular hump-backed Cape Cornwall, with its chimney stack, is the only cape where two oceans meet in England. It rears 229 feet out of the sea to a summit which offers a 270 degree view over the Western Approaches well worth the steep climb. Off shore lie the Brisons, an underwater reef that has caused many a shipwreck. Excellent stop for those walking The Coastal Footpath. Rare plants and birds give the area an extra special appeal today.

Carn Euny Ancient Village
Iron Age village, near to Land's End.

Chysauster Ancient Village
Well preserved homes of Iron Age farmers perch high on Gulval Downs, above Penzance.

Drift Reservoir
Picturesque and quiet lake near Penzance.

Geevor Tin Mine
Mining by the sea at Pendeen.

Gwennap Head
Headland just south of Land's End. Once thought to be Land's End and now the site of a Marine Conservation Zone.

Land's End
Mainland Britain's most westerly point, nine miles west of Penzance and one mile from Sennen Cove. Awe-inspiring cliff scenery, views to Longships and Wolf Rock lighthouses and 28 miles west, the Isles of Scilly. Heritage centre and tourist attraction. The rugged cliffs and coastline at Land's End are amongst the most dramatic in Cornwall. The very end of the A30 road.

Levant Beam Engine (NT)
Cliff-top mine that reached out under the sea at Pendeen.

Men-an-Tol
Holed and standing stones. The suspicion is that these three stones are the remains of a Neolithic tomb, primarily because holed stones have been found in conjunction with the entrances to burial chambers. The doughnut-shaped stone is best known for the traditional belief that it had the power to heal illnesses. Four miles North of Penzance.

Merry Maidens Stone Circle
Restored in the 1860's, this 78 foot perfect circle is Cornwall's pride and joy. Each of the 19 stones is about four feet high, and evenly spaced at about twelve foot intervals. There is a larger gap of 20 feet located at the east, which may indicate an astronomically-related entrance to the circle. There is a well-known tradition that the stones represent maidens who were turned into stone for dancing on the Sabbath. 0.5m North-West of Lamorna Cove.

Morrab Gardens
Lush sub-tropical garden at Penzance.

Pendeen Lighthouse
Midway between Land's End and St. Ives.

Penlee Art Gallery and Museum
The artistic heart of West Cornwall's history at Penzance.

Polgoon Vineyard
Cider at Penzance.

Porthcurno Telegraph Museum
The end of the line at Porthcurno.

St. Michael's Mount (NT)
This magical island is the jewel in Cornwall's crown, a national treasure which is a must for every visitor to the far West. The great granite crag which rises from the waters of Mount's Bay is surmounted by an embattled castle, originally a Benedictine Priory built in the 12th century and daughter house of the famous Mont St. Michel in Normandy. Connected to Marazion by a low tide causeway. An essential stop for those walking The Coastal Footpath.

The Minack Theatre
Acting by the sea at Porthcurno.

The Wayside Folk Museum
Fully restored 19th century working watermill at Zennor.

Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens
Gardens and art combined in a dramatic landscape at Penzance.

Trengwainton Garden (NT)
Sheltered garden with exotic trees and shrubs at Penzance.

Trewidden Garden
Home of the Bolitho Family at Penzance.

Hayle       Marazion       Newlyn       St. Buryan       St. Erth       St. Ives       St. Michael's Mount